Many travellers come to Sri Lanka for the white-sand beaches and epic surf; but right at the island’s mountainous emerald-swathed heart lies a spiritual, charming area full of tea plantations, misty hills, and those famous blue train carriages. The gateway to all of this hill-country action (and the greatest train journey in the world!) is Kandy; City of Kings, Sri Lanka’s second city and the island’s undisputed historical and cultural capital.

Protected by its geographic position and less-accessible terrain, the powerful ancient Kingdom of Kandy was able to hold off the advancement of both the Portuguese and Dutch colonisers through the 1500s and 1600s, becoming the last standing bastion of independent Ceylon. In doing so, the city was able to preserve the unique customs, culture, and arts that had been heavily subdued elsewhere in the country – until 1815 when it finally succumbed to British rule.

Today, that cultural preservation lives on in the city’s many significant cultural and historic sites, forming the basis for all the very best places to visit in Kandy. The best-known of these is the Temple of the Tooth relic; Buddhism’s most important religious shrine, and said to be the location of a portion of Buddha’s tooth. 

But Kandy is also so much more than its number one attraction; it’s a city of delightful chaos, with its bustling streets, ancient temples, colonial architecture, aristocratic gardens and the glorious Kandy lake forming the backdrop to a perfect few days amongst Sri Lanka‘s lush green hills.

There are so many great things to see and do in Kandy, and we highly recommend spending a few days in the city to take it all in. 

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KANDY TRAVEL GUIDE OVERVIEW

THINGS TO DO | Temple of the Scared Tooth, Ride the Kandy to Ella Train, Royal Botanic Gardens of Peradeniya, Explore the historic Three Temple Loop, Walk Kandy Lake, Take in the Kandy’s Markets

WHERE TO EAT | Balaji Dosa, Mandiya, Hideout Lounge, Cafe Secret Alley

HOW TO GET AROUND | Walking, tuk-tuk

WHEN TO VISIT | Between January and April

TEMPLE OF THE SACRED TOOTH RELIC, KANDY

Never has a decaying tooth held so much significance to so many people, yet that’s exactly the reason that the impressive Temple of the Sacred Tooth and Royal Complex (Sri Dalada Maligawa) is the number one attraction in Kandy. 

This ornate golden-roofed temple houses the most important Buddhist relic in Sri Lanka – a tooth of Buddha brought to the island in the 4th century. 

The temple was built between 1867 and 1707 specifically to honour this sacred relic, and the temple has long since been a place of importance for both Sri Lankan and international visitors. In fact, most Sri Lankans believe they need to visit the temple at least once in their lives to pay homage to the toothy treasure. 

Needless to say, visiting the relic was our top mission on our first visit to Kandy in 2016. Alas, due to mistiming our entry (standard team TCW mistake-making right there!) and the very brief viewing times, our wish wasn’t granted. That said, the mission wasn’t a complete failure; the temple with its ornate carvings and colourful depictions of Buddha blew our minds.

Inside the main shrine, devotees file slowly through the various rooms on their way to the casket, bending to leave offerings and pray quietly below the elaborate Buddhist murals. It’s a deeply spiritual place, and a quiet reverence floods each room.